Reptile Forum, Reptile Classifieds - CaptiveBred

[Central Scotland Reptiles]

This article provides husbandry information on caring for Day Geckos in general but with particular reference to the Neon Day Gecko, Phelsuma klemmeri. Please note that there are many different methods used in caring for animals, even those of the same species. The information contained within this document is by no means conclusive, therefore it is suggested that you conduct your own research prior to purchasing any animal. The information provided here is the tried and tested practice that works for me. I will not be held responsible for any problems resulting in following this information.


ADULTS


It is worth mentioning from the out set that there is no ‘perfect’ enclosure for housing Neon Day Geckos. Personally, I like the Exo-Terra range of enclosures and use them exclusively to house my adult breeders; I find these glass vivaria aesthetically very pleasing. In the past I have used several other types of enclosures with varying degrees of success. Do not be afraid to experiment, provided the basic requirements and needs of your animals are met, cage design, construction and configuration is of secondary importance. Good animal management in my opinion is being able to manipulate environmental conditions accordingly as and when required.

I house my adult Day Geckos in pairs; it has been documented that certain species, including Phelsuma klemmeri, can be kept in larger groups consisting of multiple males and females. If breeding is your goal, I would suggest sticking with just one male and one female per vivarium. The enclosures I use measure 60' x 45' x 45' ( width x depth x height ) and provides ample living space for my animals. These glass vivaria only require minor adjustments to provide optimal living conditions. First off, remove the background. I found that both the crickets and the geckos themselves would disappear down the back of the polystyrene. Instead, I secure cork tiles ( bathroom tiles ) to three sides of the vivaria, these panels not only help promote security and heat retention but plants and branches can be secured to the sides of the vivaria. Secondly, to help control humidity I block off half of the screen lid. I use a piece of cut glass for this and secure it in place with some glue.

Now comes one of the most enjoyable aspects of keeping Day Geckos, setting up the enclosure. Firstly we need to ensure good drainage, for this I use an inch of Hydroleca on the floor of the vivarium. On top of this you need a suitable substrate, when I say suitable I mean a substrate that is able to hold and release moisture. I use a mixture of coco fibre and medium grade orchid bark, this is mixed to a ratio of 2 parts coco fibre and 1 part orchid bark. I like a thick layer of substrate and cover the bottom of the vivarium to a depth of 2 - 3 inches ( almost to the lip of the door ). Again, there are several different options when it comes to substrate choice, experiment!!

I enjoy keeping live plants in my vivaria and I think my animals appreciate the extra humidity and cover these plants provide. I like to use Devils Ivy, also known as pothos, and Sansevieria. These plants are available at most garden centres and grow well in the vivarium. Regardless of which species of plant you use make sure you wash them THOROUGHLY and re-pot them prior to being planted in your enclosure. I tend to go for the pothos plants that were originally intended for hanging baskets, these plants have long runners that provide good cover for your animals. Cuttings can easily be taken from these plants to begin a new generation of pothos for other enclosures.

Day Geckos are arboreal by nature and are excellent climbers. To facilitate this I use bamboo canes of various sizes and diameters to provide aerial climbing and basking opportunities. Again, you should wash all furnishings prior to them being used. In my experience, Day Geckos seem to prefer horizontal branches. A word of caution, make sure the diameter of the bamboo cane is sufficient to allow the animals to move freely inside the cane, otherwise block the ends off completely.

Good lighting is essential for the well being of your Day Geckos. I have used various different types of lights in the past, I am now in the process of assessing the benefits of using three different types of bulbs to illuminate my enclosures. The first is a bulb by a company called Activa, model 172. The second is a Philips TLD 960 and the third and final bulb is a 5.0 UVB tube. Combined, these bulbs should fully meet my geckos’ lighting requirements, the plants also benefit from this arrangement. Lights are set to a day / night cycle of 14 hours of light in the summer and 10 hours of light in the winter months. Be sure to replace the bulbs as per the manufacturer’s guidelines.

Heat is provided via a spot light connected to a dimmable thermostat. The warmest part of the vivarium is set at 86 – 88F with the cool end allowed to reach temperatures closer to 82 – 84F. This creates an ambient ( back ground ) temperature of around 84 – 86F. Day Geckos will often move freely around their enclosure and be in full view if they feel secure enough, DON'T make them 'choose' between heat and security however!!!

The final piece of 'kit' that I use is more from a labour saving point as apposed to an essential requirement. I use an automatic watering system installed into the roof of my vivaria. When you have a large collection it is not always practical or possible to spray down 30+ enclosures every day. My system is scheduled to 'rain' mid afternoon for 30 – 60 seconds. Humidity after half an hour increases to near 100%, as the day goes on the humidity level drops and the vivaria slowly dries out. This drying out process is essential. If your vivarium is bone dry a couple of hours after spraying then either you have too much ventilation or you are not spraying enough. On the other hand, if the substrate is saturated with water for the whole day the enclosure is far too wet. You are looking for an average humidity of between 50 – 85% over the course of the day. For me, a watering system helps deliver a controlled volume of water to my enclosures at a predetermined time and duration. A £1.99 misting gun would do the job just as well provided you are on hand to do this EVERY day. I use normal tap water in both my misting system and my spray gun, the only 'conditioning' I do is to leave the water to cure overnight. Day Geckos hate cold water so make sure it is at room temperature. If the water is good enough for me to drink then it is good enough for my animals!!! I have no hard and fast rule when it comes to humidity levels. REMEMBER - water and electricity DOES NOT make for a good combination.

I feed my animals every alternate day. Their diet is predominantly made up of appropriate sized crickets; I also offer a small amount of fruit based baby food twice a week with mango, apple and pear being a particular favourite. Waxworms are offered as a treat and are eagerly accepted. Both the crickets and waxworms are dusted with calcium powder prior to being offered to my geckos. These timescales are fairly loose as some individuals will require food more frequently and others less so. As the breeding season draws nearer I like to increase the number of feeds. Again, it is up to you to judge how much and how often you feed your animals.


HATCHLINGS


Hatchling Neon Day Geckos are very delicate. This is where well established animals from reputable breeders come into their own. An animal that is under 3 months in age is NOT, in my opinion, an established animal. Nor is it robust enough to withstand anything less than optimal living conditions.

The enclosure I use for the hatchlings is simple yet effective. I keep all my hatchling Day Geckos in Critter Keepers, the young of certain species can be housed in these plastic containers without any need for modification, hatchling Neon Day Geckos on the other hand are tiny and are able to squeeze through the air vents in the lid. I use a pair of old tights to prevent this. The Critter Keepers are housed in a wooden rack, type, system. This rack is heated using a heat cable connected to a good quality thermostat. The ambient temperature within this enclosure is maintained at a steady 86F. Light is provided via UV strip lights connected to a timer. The wooden rack has glass sliding doors at the front which provide for easy access and visibility. Inside each enclosure itself is a small live pothos plant and a criss cross ariel perch system made out of bamboo canes. As a substrate I use clean white kitchen towels. I manually spray each enclosure lightly on a daily basis; this allows me to keep a close eye on each and every individual. Desiccation ( drying out ) in young Day Geckos can be a killer. Don't use cold water as this will shock the young geckos.

Young Day Geckos feed and shed more often than adults. As a consequence they also defecate more often too. Keep the youngsters in a clean environment, failure to do so will cause no end of problems. I am a firm believer in prevention being better than cure. I feed my babies every other day on appropriate sized, calcium dusted, crickets. Fruit based baby food is also offered on the alternate day to the crickets.

In closing, I would consider the Neon Day Gecko to be more suited to the experienced keeper. Attention to detail is critical, especially with young geckos. Phelsuma klemmeri are not common in captive collections so every effort should, in my opinion, be made to reproduce your animals and to keep the captive genetics as diverse as possible.


By Fraser Gilchrist - Central Scotland Reptiles

Constructive feedback is encouraged...............
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Fraser Gilchrist
Central Scotland Reptiles - "Finding Beauty in the Beasts"

[lol93]

A really comprehensive caresheet. Thanks Fraser!
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[Central Scotland Reptiles]

Thanks, i am please you found it interesting.
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Fraser Gilchrist
Central Scotland Reptiles - "Finding Beauty in the Beasts"

[Jack]

great care sheet fraser
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jack
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