Reptile Forum, Reptile Classifieds - CaptiveBred

[Dan]

Ok so as i see it there are 2 main ways to heat reptiles - "bulbs" and "mats"

For the purpose of this post the title "bulbs" includes both ceramic, spot and normal light bulbs. In the same way within the title "mats" i am including normal mats, strips and cables.

The "bulbs" heat a specific area rapidly and to a relatively high temperature via a projection method where as the "mats" produce a more steady heat over a wider area at a low to medium temperature via a contact method. Make sense so far, on a general level?

After a brief discussion with a reptile equipment supplier that visits this forum a few months ago i started to look more closely at certain aspects of heating with my main focus on gravid females.

When i use bulbs the area heated is very compact. While this is great for creating a basking spot it is no good for creating a large enough area to heat the entire snake. This is certainly the case with my animals and i would imagine is the same with the larger carpets and boas.
This means that either the snakes have to continually rotate to cause even heat distribution (which they don't) or certain areas get more heat than others.

Is this range of heat along the body likely to affect offspring/egg production, ie if the whole animal receieves the same heat (like in the wild) is it going to reduce the average level of slug production?

I know that the limitations of the wattages available for heatmats are due to the plastic casing they come in, ie high wattage = melted plastic case. But i am wondering if a larger wattage matt in a different casing is the answer. As they tend to heat via contact they would still be used as "under tank heaters" this in itself is a problem with the production of a gradient over 6 feet. They just don't radiate heat down the viv and the cool end is the same as the room temp.

So is the answer a larger more broad heat spot producing bulb the answer?


Any opinions, thoughts are welcome.
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TFA

The future is bright, the future is a net like pattern.................

I'm NOT an expert, so if you don't want to know my opinion don't ask!!

[Stuart]

Flood lamp such as a powersun, they don't concentrate the heat as much as a spot bulb..I think.

[Jas]

Have you thought about using soil warming cable, this comes in a variety of lengths and so can be laid into any size area you like.You could route it into the bottom of the viv and then fix a sheet of hardboard or something over it so the snake doesnt tangle in it.
http://www.taylorsgardenbuildings.co.uk/store/customer/product.php?productid=16347&cat=274&page=1

[Dan]

I'm not sure how much a powersun will do when it only has 18 inches (or 2 feet, if i have no other option) to to create a big enough foot print. I would imagine that the main beam will still be very concentrated, maybe 10-15 inches in diameter at best?

The cable would produce a larger area with a more even temperature distribution but i'm not sure it would create a sufficient gradient.
_________________
TFA

The future is bright, the future is a net like pattern.................

I'm NOT an expert, so if you don't want to know my opinion don't ask!!

[Stuart]

Only way I can think of is 2 heat sources spaced out accordingly in your viv, thermostatically controlled..

[Martinh]

Heater cable gets very hot! I melted a hole through the bottom of a cricket keeper tank thingy that was with a 50w cable, it certainly gets to hot to touch! Might not be so good for larger areas.

Would an ambient heater like a radiator, on a smaller scale be of use?

[Dan]

thankyou for your replies
Dan is currently away with work and will reply when he gets back

Thankyou for your patience
_________________
TFA

The future is bright, the future is a net like pattern.................

I'm NOT an expert, so if you don't want to know my opinion don't ask!!

[mark_w]

You could try angling two or three bulbs to create a larger spot? I had a similar problem with my tegus: difficult to create a large enough spot for a couple of large lizards (they like to bask together). I opted for a large chicken brooder lamp reflector (bigger than proprietary reptile ones) with a high wattage heat bulb (250W; again sold for poultry). You need a fair height to do this though; mine is mounted quite high above, i.e. over 60cm.

I have heard that it is ok to put a large heat mat in the cage and let the animal lie dierctly on this. As long as the mat is large enough that heat can still escape, i.e. it is not covered by the animal, then apparently this is safe. I have no idea what temp you are trying to achieve, but heat mats reach around 105 degrees, but of course can be used with a stat to reduce this. I have never used one this way, but it is a widely used method.

Mark.

[Dan]

Thanks for your replies, sorry i havent been able to respond until now.

I'm not keen on any heatmats inside a viv without protection, so for me personally that's not an option.

As of right now i may have to work on a system using multiple heaters, however, I have had a few emails back from some sources i have been looking into so i am going to look at my options later this coming week.

I'll let you know what i come up with, it may benefit someone else as well as me.
_________________
TFA

The future is bright, the future is a net like pattern.................

I'm NOT an expert, so if you don't want to know my opinion don't ask!!

[Scott W]

When I used to keep larger boids (burmese and common boas), I used to heat the vivs with two heating systems.

Firstly I would router the floor of the viv out to accept a heat cable, this was then stuck in using silicone and a sheet of aluminum was stuck over the top, again with silicone. I then connected this up to a normal light dimming switch. I then spent a few days 'dialling' the switch until a got the floor temp I wanted. I would also use a small wattage spot light on a dimming stat to give some heat and light from above. This was positioned over the cable area.

This system worked great, no burns or 'chills' etc. The only down side was I was unable to seal the aluminum to the viv floor 100%, so urine would slowly seep under, this meant the viv would only last 2 - 3 years. This was fine for me as I could just replace the floor section without too much cost, only the hassle of lifting the other 3 vivs off the top.
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